Why are so many brands missing from London Fashion Week?

The most enigmatic and eccentric city in the industry is hosting its fashion week. But after the British Council published the official calendar, some major figures are conspicuous by their absence.

From February 20 to 24, all eyes will be on London. The English capital will host the fall-winter 2025 presentations during an intensive week, expected for its creative audacity. However, when browsing the official calendar unveiled by the British Fashion Council, some notable absences jump out at you: Jonathan Anderson , 16Arlington, Chopova Lowena, Nensi Dojaka, Ahluwalia and Knwls… Once a bastion of innovation and extravagance, London Fashion Week seems to be losing its momentum.

An economic challenge  

A recent report by Lefty and “Business of Fashion” highlights the contrast in exposure between major capitals. In terms of media value (EMV) generated during the last Fashion Week, Paris dominates with $237 million, followed by Milan ($250 million), New York ($132 million), while London struggles with just $20 million. This low visibility is compounded by a difficult economic context: according to “Vogue Business”, organizing a fashion show can cost more than £60,000, an investment sometimes considered disproportionate to the impact. Faced with these challenges, some brands are experimenting with new formats. Marco Capaldo, creative director of 16Arlington, has chosen to organize a dinner bringing together the label’s close supporters, who will discover the fall-winter 2025 collection worn by the guests themselves. “A fashion show lasts 15 minutes, while a dinner allows you to create real connections and appreciate the clothes in their natural environment,” he explains to “Vogue”.  

Despite these absences, London has not said its last word. Harris Reed, Conner Ives, Dilara Fındıkoğlu — whose gothic aesthetic seduces the entire industry —, Steven Stokey Daley (winner of the 2022 LVMH Prize) and three of the semi-finalists of the 2025 LVMH Prize, Sinéad O’Dwyer and Steve O Smith, promise to breathe new energy into this edition.